From the best hosts to the best guests
Gabriel Geller
Sukkot is the holiday that most highlights the mitzvah of Hachnasat Orchim, Welcoming Guests. Our sukkah should be like the tent of our patriarch Avraham, open in all directions to welcome in all passersby. Sukkot is also a holiday for which wine is not, ritually, as much of a centerpiece. But it remains an important feature at every meal to enhance the simcha, the celebratory atmosphere at the table. The lack of ritual requirements beyond Kiddush is an opportunity to branch out and discover all sorts of wine from any category — a sweet red Israeli wine, a bone-dry French Sauvignon Blanc, a fruity Italian variety, or a sparkling California wine, and anything in between. The guests we welcome into our sukkahs can have a wide array of preferences. Let’s explore a selection of wines from various styles, regions, and varieties to enjoy with our guests this Sukkot. Chag sameach and l’chaim!
Covenant, Solomon, Sauvignon Blanc, 2022: Covenant Winery is synonymous with premium California wine. The Solomon Sauvignon Blanc is named in homage to the late Leslie Rudd, one of Covenant’s founding partners, whose Hebrew name was Shlomo/Solomon. This incredibly sophisticated and complex barrel-aged wine is nicknamed by Covenant’s founding partner and winemaker Jeff Morgan as “Faux Brion,” in tribute to the Château Haut-Brion Blanc in Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, one of that region’s most prestigious white wines. I understand why, as its aromas of lemon, lime, jasmine, and iodine unfold, with a subtly viscous palate, featuring much of the same, as well as fresh almonds, saline minerals, and citrus pith, all lifted by a high, yet remarkably well-balancing acidity. It pairs wonderfully with most savory fish, poultry, and veal dishes.
Lovatelli, Primitivo, Salento, 2022: About 27 years ago, it was discovered that the Primitivo variety from Italy is the genetic twin of Zinfandel, a variety mostly grown in California. Like its American counterpart, Primitivo makes big, bold, fruit-forward wines. This Lovatelli from southern Italy’s Salento region features notes of jammy, very ripe blackberries and dried strawberries with an interesting mix of caramel and savory mushroom notes, along with a hint of maraschino cherry liquor and chewy tannins on the finish. It pairs well with braised or smoked baby back ribs or short ribs drenched in sticky sweet sauce.
Celler de Capçanes, Peraj Petita, Monstant, 2022: This eclectic blend from Catalonia has long been a top QPR (quality-price ratio), offering a complex yet ready-to-drink wine, with notes of red and black forest berries, fresh Mediterranean herbs, oriental spices, and a touch of savory earthiness. What comes to mind is a juicy pastrami sandwich with horseradish dressing and Petita in my glass.
Herzog, Special Reserve, Méthode Champenoise, Brut, Rosé, NV: Herzog’s head winemaker, David Galzignato, crafts an exceptionally refreshing Champagne-style brut rosé. This dry, crisp, fruit-forward wine captures the essence of summer with notes of strawberries, watermelon, and sour cherries with subtle yeasty notes of freshly baked bread, complemented by a mineral finish and vibrant acidity. Ideal with fruit salad, sushi, or grilled chicken, fish, and veal.
Tura, Mountain Peak, 2018: A flagship wine from a winery in Israel’s Shomron, this elegant and well-structured Bordeaux blend is full-bodied, with notes of black fruit, toasted oak, and tobacco, rich and generous on the palate with savory earth undertones and a long, tannic finish. At six years old, it is approachable now, but I encourage setting some bottles aside, as it should develop further over five-eight years. Wondering which wine to serve with your standing rib roast? Grab this Tura Mountain Peak.
— Kedem/Royal Wine
Gabriel Geller, WSET III, is the director of public relations and advertising manager of public relations for Royal Wine Corp.
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