The other side of the cork: Cantina Giuliano — kosher in Tuscany
Italian kosher wines continue to proliferate. For a long time, French, Israeli, and American wineries were the first choice for kosher-observant consumers, but there has been a significant increase in the production of kosher wines from some of Italy’s finest wineries. One recently established winery that is becoming a popular choice and tourist destination is Cantina Giuliano.
Its story is particularly romantic: Two young people fall in love, discover their passion for wine, and strengthen their connection to Judaism through the spiritual realms wine represents as a vital accompaniment to our rituals and life-cycle events and the important days in our calendar year.
Eli and Lara Gauthier — he is from Paris, she from the Tuscan countryside — met at university in London. After marrying in Israel, they settled in London, where Eli worked in a market selling wine and conducting tastings. This led him to enroll in a winemaking course in Strasbourg, France. He obtained a winemaking degree and a job producing wine in one of the local (nonkosher) wineries. Eli soon realized there was a significant lack of kosher wines from Italy, so in 2014, he and Lara took over space her parents had available in their garage in Tuscany, to create a boutique kosher winery. Production began in 2014 with a single Chianti; in 2017 they opened a dairy restaurant on the site.
After the birth of their son, Eli and Lara decided to live in Strasbourg to provide him with a Jewish education and environment. Eli now spends from Pesach to Sukkot in Tuscany to oversee wine production and manage the tourism and culinary business. He then returns to Strasbourg to study in kollel, but makes monthly trips to Italy for essential winemaking tasks.
Tuscany’s diverse terroir is a mosaic of soil types, microclimates, and elevations, all contributing to the distinctiveness of its wines. The climate and hilly terrain are optimal for the varietal grapes the region is famous for. Soils range from clay and limestone to sandy and volcanic, each imparting unique flavors and qualities. The Mediterranean climate ensures a long growing season, allowing grapes to develop to full ripeness.
Chianti, made primarily from Sangiovese grapes, is perhaps the most famous type of wine made in Tuscany. A “young” Chianti Primizie was the first wine Cantina Giuliano had to produce and get “right” to solidify their success. Chianti comes in varying levels of quality and barrel aging, producing robust yet elegant wines showcasing notes of cherries, leather, and earth.
Cantina Giuliano now offers several other wines, including Rosato, Vermentino, Merlot from Campagna, Cabernet, a Super Tuscan blend, and Sweet V. Its flagship wine, A Mano, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is fermented in oak barrels with manual punch-downs and aged for 18 months in French oak, resulting in a rich and lush mouthfeel.
The winery’s production has expanded 10-fold since its opening to 120,000 bottles annually, with eight types of wine ranging from lighter, fruit-forward reds to richer, barrel-aged blends, rosé, whites, and now dessert wines. The Sweet V, made from prized Vermentino grapes, is a low-alcohol, slightly frizzante, fruity hit, in classic white and rosé versions. Eli and Lara are excited about Vin Santo, a new, more traditional Tuscan dessert wine, available exclusively at their restaurant.
Wine tourism in Tuscany has become a popular place for kosher-observant tourists, who can explore ancient vineyards, tour historic wine cellars, and engage with passionate winemakers like Eli and Lara.
Cantina Giuliano’s restaurant and holiday offerings showcase an Italian lifestyle. The Gauthiers are expanding their facilities and distribution and offering catering, and the restaurant now offers an authentic Italian meat menu in addition to the dairy one.
The Gauthiers say the most fulfilling aspect of their work is crafting a product used for pleasure and mitzvot. “Seeing friends make Kiddush on our wine for significant occasions is tremendously satisfying. Celebrating the bottling of a new batch with our staff at the end of a long process is a cherished tradition.”
The wine region of Tuscany, with its rich history, diverse terroir, and the Gauthier family’s passion, continues to produce exceptional wines, offering a journey through tradition and innovation. L’chaim!
—Royal Wine